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Thread: How well does Evercoat Slick sand, sand

  1. #1
    88GT Guest

    Default How well does Evercoat Slick sand, sand

    Got a gallon for free to try. I didnt realize it took the liquid hardener. I used featherfill before, which takes the same hardner, and was not impressed. Is slick sand any better?

  2. #2

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    I used it to custom form a bezel on a pc and it sands like a dream. My opinion is its the best stuff.

  3. #3
    88GT Guest

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    I'll have to try something small 1st before I commit to a whole car. Cant beat free though. I'll be happy if it sands anything like a urethane primer. I did get a half gallon of DuPont Euro Primer which I know is good.

  4. #4
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    if you have already tried featherfill, just take that experience and just think that it would be close to being in between that and 2k, but a little closer to the hard side

  5. #5
    88GT Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by dixie1776
    if you have already tried featherfill, just take that experience and just think that it would be close to being in between that and 2k, but a little closer to the hard side
    If I recall correctly, even after a full 3-4 hour cure of the featherfill, it still seemed to load up the sand paper quite a bit. Will a 2.0 tip be big enough? I thought a 2.2 would have worked better with the feather fill.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    I use a 2.0 with it...but i also reduce it a little with laquer thinner. Lays down nice and smooth that way once you get the hang of it. Just be careful with it..heh it gets alot thicker than you think when you put it on.
    I dont know how you normally prepare your body work for paint..but definately feather edge around the bodywork with 320. Anything finer it doesnt sit in the scratches and you can feel an edge.
    First time i tried it i wasnt impressed but once i got the hang of it...its the best stuff i've ever used. Blows 2k urethane primers out of the water IMO.
    Ive done jobs with this stuff 2 years ago and i see them all the time and it looks like the day i finished it. Just great stuff.
    As far as sanding it goes...depending on what im doing.. I'll DA it real quick with p320, then water sand with block with 500 and top coat. If im striving for perfection i wont touch it with the DA, ill waterblock it with 320, then 500 then top coat. Try it a few times if you dont have good results with it the first time try it again i think you'll end up liking it.
    It may not sand as easy as some of the easy sand 2k urethane primers...but it isnt that much harder..and with the results i get with it...its worth the little extra labor to use this stuff.
    Good luck with it...let me know what you think!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    I'm new at this, but I used slicksand this week with a 2.2 tip, also thinned a little with lacquer thinner. My biggest problem was the extreme settling with occurred. I scraped off the hard stuff off the bottom and put them in my plastic paint-mixing cup with thinner, then stirred that for like a half-hour. Then poured it back into the chunk-less slicksand. I really, really like this primer. It builds thick as can be in just 2 coats.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    I didn't really care for it,I think there are better products out there.Its a good idea to lay some plastic on the floor cause the over spray is sticky.I found that the longer you leave it cure the harder it gets.I found it really hard to sand,started with 120 then up to 180 and used regular 2k on top.This was on a couple of chevelle fenders that had a skim coat of filler front to back,finished in 80 grit and pounded it on with a taiwan 3.0 tip,what a hose but it worked well in that situation.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    I'll have to remember that, I did sand it the next afternoon. Plus it was quite cold in my garage. I'm guessing if I had let it cure a few days and it was warmer, it would have been 'hard' to sand. Sort of like my Metalglaze when I accidently give it too much hardener or too much time.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Montreal, Canada
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    Default I use it on fiber glass bodies and parts...

    I don't realy have a use for it much in cars unless a pannel realy needs a skim coat of filler, then I use it instead of a skim coat...it sands much better as it lays more evenly than anything you can do with a spreader. For fiberglass though it's the nuts...

    That was a pretty good price though...you can keep it for those special situations. I find it's not a replacement for surfacing primers, it's too tough to sand compared to a good urethane or high build epoxy...but when you need high filling it's the thing to use...
    My 2 cents worth...
    Serge

  11. #11
    88GT Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Serge
    I don't realy have a use for it much in cars unless a pannel realy needs a skim coat of filler, then I use it instead of a skim coat...it sands much better as it lays more evenly than anything you can do with a spreader. For fiberglass though it's the nuts...

    That was a pretty good price though...you can keep it for those special situations. I find it's not a replacement for surfacing primers, it's too tough to sand compared to a good urethane or high build epoxy...but when you need high filling it's the thing to use...
    Im working on a 68 Mustang with lots of after market fiberglass parts. I guess I'll use it on the fiberglass, but I will probably block the slick sand with 180 and follow with a couple coats of my usual 2K.

  12. #12
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    Dec 2006
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    the right tip for poly fill is 2.2, but everyone's different--- i suggest that you don't reduce it.

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