TheCoatingStore.com
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Nason paint system

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    8

    Default Nason paint system

    I'm about to paint a few parts on my car, its my first time painting and don't want to spend alot of money on the good stuff so I'll be using nason. This is a list of the products I picked out to use, let me know how this will work or if I should change anything. Thanks.

    Nason 441-05 wax/grease remover
    Plas-stik 2322S adhesion promoter
    Nason Select-Prime 421-19
    Ful-Seal Select 422-23 acrylic sealer
    Ful-base B/C basecoat
    Select-clear 496-00

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Jeshz:

    What exactly are you painting, and what shape is it in?

    Barry

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I'm painting the rear and front bumper covers and driver side door on a 95 chevy camaro. Both covers are stripped down to the bare plastic with some body work on the front cover, both are sanded to 220. The door, I feathered out all rock chips and such and has an original oem finish on it. Made a mistake of sanding the entire door with 220 but still has clear coat on the non repair areas.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Jeshz

    Some will suggest a flex additive for your plastic parts....i don't use it. I would suggest you look into the use of chroma base instead of the nason basecoat. Its been my experience theres really no cost difference between the two because you use half as much of the chroma as you do the nason. The chroma will also give you a better match with your oem paint. The nason sealer is suspect, as per my dupont guy telling me the nason sealer will bleed up thru the basecoat over time and give you a less vibrant paint look. Its happening to one of my vehicles that i painted a few years back....looks like it needs a wax job, once you look close, you can see the clearcoat has a good shine, but the paint is less vibrant....I switched to mp170 epoxy, and use that as my sealer.
    Good luck with your project

    Barry

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    28,193

    Default

    With the materials that I use I find that the flexible bumpers will crack much more easily a year later if flex additive has not be added to the paint. However there's little difference for the first week or so but then, after that, the urethane stiffens and can get quite brittle. Some paints are more brittle than others and some additives are better than others so the benefits of flex will differ from product to product.

  6. #6
    88GT Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry
    Jeshz

    Some will suggest a flex additive for your plastic parts....i don't use it. I would suggest you look into the use of chroma base instead of the nason basecoat. Its been my experience theres really no cost difference between the two because you use half as much of the chroma as you do the nason. The chroma will also give you a better match with your oem paint. The nason sealer is suspect, as per my dupont guy telling me the nason sealer will bleed up thru the basecoat over time and give you a less vibrant paint look. Its happening to one of my vehicles that i painted a few years back....looks like it needs a wax job, once you look close, you can see the clearcoat has a good shine, but the paint is less vibrant....I switched to mp170 epoxy, and use that as my sealer.
    Good luck with your project

    Barry
    I agree. But it s a small project. Id still use a better clear, like the Nason 465-00

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    186

    Default

    I have used Nason and like it. I use the clears every time however on your list don't forget you need a Base Activator and reducer. I would suggest using Chromabase, yes its going to cost a little more but it mixes 1 to 1 so a pint makes a quart. You only need a reducer and it covers quicker. I have found on just the base I really save very little using Nason over Chromabase.


    Brian

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Thanks for the help guys. For the sealer how about I use Ful-Poxy 491-35 epoxy primer sealer? Yes, I think I will use the chromabase and and nason 465-00 clear. This paint job is basically going to be practice because I'm probably going to end up repainting the whole car a completely different color next summer. I just want to finally get my car back on the road before this summer is over. So there probably isn't any point in using the flex additives. I havn't gone to the supply store yet to find out prices but do you guys think I'll be able to paint both bumper covers and the door for under $400 with the products I've mentioned? Thanks.

    Edit:
    Forgot to mention that I'm spraying a teal color for the base and what can I do to get the primer sealer as close to this color as possible?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Jeshz:

    If your going to repaint next summer, go ahead and use the nason sealer (it only comes in one color a dark grey) should work good for teal (dark green i take it) If your door work has been feather and everything smooth, you don't need the select prime but you'll have to sand to 400 solid/600 metallic and seal it. You can get by without the activator for the chroma, but use it when you do your full repaint. Everything you need comes in quarts, so you should have plenty of material....When it comes to the paint, a pint will mix to a quart with the basemaker 1 to 1....depending on what you have for a gun, it should be enough for what you want to do....BUT....being a first-timer, you always want to have enough paint. You should easily be able to do this for under 400 dollars. BUT....and theres always a "BUT" you can cut out a few products and save some bucks with the understanding its all gonna get sanded off next summer for new paint. Thats the way i would do it if it was my vehicle, if it was someone else's vehicle, i'd follow all the rules. Let us know how it turns out....good luck

    Barry

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    186

    Default

    Truly learn from a true novice.........when I have had a burn through with the buffer or something else I learned if the Chroma base was not activated I had problems lifting of the original base by the new respray if it was outside the recoat window and had went through the clear.


    Brian

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    8

    Default

    The color is a light teal, its called light teal metallic. I'm thinking about purchasing this gun with the 1.4 tip, I've heard some good things about it and also since I'm painting in my garage I like that it won't produce as much overspray. Was also going to purchase this compressor filter. What is the best/cheapest way to hook this up to my compressor? Should I run a pipe from the compressor to the filter and then a hose from the filter to the gun? Also, do I spray the adhesion promoter with my primer gun(1.8) or the the bc/cc gun(1.4)? Thanks.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •