After stripping the car was etch primed and the body work begun.  Most of the bottom 8" of the car had to be reconstructed.  Having a way to get the car in the air sure helps with this type of low work.

Once the new sheetmetal is welded into place, fiberglass paste is used to seal the seams then body filler is used to bring the level of repairs within a tolerance that can be finished in primer.

The gaps between panels and body had to be adjusted and then most filled in order to give that  precision  appearance.

After all the filling and sanding the vehicle was re-etch primed and a 2K primer was applied.  Long sanding boards were made using 3 foot pieces of wood and 3 inch wide, stick on, sandpaper.   This made the body perfectly flat and ready for the final primer coats.

Final priming was done with a tintable primer which is like painting over a much tighter material in that it doesn't absorb the top coat nearly as much as a 2K filler primer would.

Several coats of the top coat color are applied including two final coats which are mixed with 50% clear so that the car can be buffed to a harder shine without looking like a clear coated car.

Moldings and hardware are installed using extreme care as not to scratch the paint.  Many areas are masked to protect them from loose hardware while adjusting and tightening.